* * *
KTX Transportation
Making the trip up to the top of the country is becoming more and more relaxing and smooth since we discovered the KTX. The Korea Train eXpress, better known as the KTX, is a high-speed rail system that connects the southernmost province of South Korea to the northernmost. It is operated by Korail and is a very efficient (and comfortable) system if you are travelling from points between Busan, Gwangju, and Seoul. We'd heard a lot about the train system from other expats last fall when a few friends had taken it during Chuseok. We had just gotten off a 5-hour bus ride with generally-comfy seats and no AC while they had just gotten off a 3-hour KTX train with beautiful views straight through the towns and countrysides along the course of their trip. Since that time in the fall, we'd wanted to try this mode of transport, so when we landed in Incheon after our January vacation, we sprang for two KTX tickets back to Gwangju. These tickets are only about 20,000 won more than direct bus tickets, but worth infinitely more if you prefer a smoother ride or have a small bladder. Equipped with lots of space for your luggage in each cabin and a few bathrooms on each train, the amenities it offers are great compared to the bus alternatives. We took it again this time around, for the Lunar New Year weekend, because we are posh now and addicted to modern luxuries. Links at the bottom of the blog for more info.!
* * *
Seoul
Once in Seoul for the first night of the New Year, we booked a guesthouse in a district of Seoul that is dominated by a Hogwarts-reminiscent women's university: Idae (another name for the area surrounding the Ehwa Women's College or 이화여자대학교). It was just stinkin' beautiful to see such a structure rising up from the gray cemented landscape that stretches across most of the metropolis.
So, here ya go!
* * *
Districts of Choice
#1 - Express Bus Terminal in Banpo-dong (Usual bus arrival location)
This was the first district we came into contact with during Chuseok last year. Being the common place where busses arrive when in Seoul, it is usually crawling with people. You'll know this station as you enter it on a long driveway under the building taking you to the back parking lot filled with busses and stops. It's located in central Seoul with two subway lines intersecting beneath (Gold and Orange). There is a lot to in terms of food and shopping at the terminal, and is indoors and usually well-heated or air-conditioned. It can be a little confusing to navigate when inside the terminal with all of the people, floors, restaurants, and shops, so try and know your plan of what you need to do to get in and out of the chaos as fast as possible. It can also be hectic if you are getting on the subway at this juncture for the first time though there are signs in English and Korean everywhere so it's not too formidable a labyrinth and is a great Point A to start at when visiting Seoul.
This was the first district we came into contact with during Chuseok last year. Being the common place where busses arrive when in Seoul, it is usually crawling with people. You'll know this station as you enter it on a long driveway under the building taking you to the back parking lot filled with busses and stops. It's located in central Seoul with two subway lines intersecting beneath (Gold and Orange). There is a lot to in terms of food and shopping at the terminal, and is indoors and usually well-heated or air-conditioned. It can be a little confusing to navigate when inside the terminal with all of the people, floors, restaurants, and shops, so try and know your plan of what you need to do to get in and out of the chaos as fast as possible. It can also be hectic if you are getting on the subway at this juncture for the first time though there are signs in English and Korean everywhere so it's not too formidable a labyrinth and is a great Point A to start at when visiting Seoul.
#2 - Yongsan (Usual KTX arrival location)
This is usually where we arrive when we take the KTX bullet-train to Seoul. The station doubles (and triples) as the metro station for the Dark Blue line and an enormous mall encompasses the station, chock full of shops and vendors. There are several other KTX stations in Seoul, for those who want to get off closer to other parts of the city where you might be staying, but this is the main one you will end up at when arriving in Seoul.
#3 - Sejongno
This is usually where we arrive when we take the KTX bullet-train to Seoul. The station doubles (and triples) as the metro station for the Dark Blue line and an enormous mall encompasses the station, chock full of shops and vendors. There are several other KTX stations in Seoul, for those who want to get off closer to other parts of the city where you might be staying, but this is the main one you will end up at when arriving in Seoul.
#3 - Sejongno
~Gyeongbokgung (경복궁) and Changdeokgung (창덕궁) Palaces~
The first of the two palaces, Gyeongbokgung, lies at the end of a major thoroughfare, replete with museums and other important buildings. We ventured into one such museum on our way to the palace that we discovered beneath an enormous statue of King Sejong.
This museum was full of historical tidbits about previous kings who had ruled throughout the Korean land; it also displayed information about many historic battles--one even with a huge replica of a "turtle ship" used in battle!
Once out of the museum, we made our way down the thoroughfare to Gyeongbokgung.
Now both of these palaces are massive and take up a large portion of the real estate in north-central Seoul. Gyeongbokgung is the main royal palace, built in 1395 and preserved since its use during the Joseon dynasty. The eves that greet you as you enter are beautifully ornate and lovely, opening up to large courtyards surrounded by high, protective walls creating a barrier between you and the sprawling skyscrapers beyond.
In the center of said courtyards, there are usually long paths leading to a central throne room or additional important buildings eventually encompassing a central throne room.
After walking to see both throne rooms of Gyeongbokgung, we stopped for lunch at the cutest little cafe just outside Gyeongbokgung's entrance, across the street and to the east: Sandy Espresso. We had the most delicious little sandwiches and view of the passersby eager to get a glimpse of the glorious temple just in eyesight from the cafe. We highly recommend this lunch spot if you are in the area and hitting up both palaces just as we did! 5 stars! ;)
When we arrived at Changdeokgung, the second of the two palaces within a couple miles of each other, our dogs were barking from so much walking! We were happy to see benches for a quick sit and ample shade to stand under if it were a hot and humid day in July. Both palaces are very similar, but worth seeing if you have the time. If not, one will do in a pinch and you will be happy to say you've been there.
#7 - Yongsan-dong
~National Museum of Korea~
The first of the two palaces, Gyeongbokgung, lies at the end of a major thoroughfare, replete with museums and other important buildings. We ventured into one such museum on our way to the palace that we discovered beneath an enormous statue of King Sejong.
This museum was full of historical tidbits about previous kings who had ruled throughout the Korean land; it also displayed information about many historic battles--one even with a huge replica of a "turtle ship" used in battle!
Once out of the museum, we made our way down the thoroughfare to Gyeongbokgung.
Now both of these palaces are massive and take up a large portion of the real estate in north-central Seoul. Gyeongbokgung is the main royal palace, built in 1395 and preserved since its use during the Joseon dynasty. The eves that greet you as you enter are beautifully ornate and lovely, opening up to large courtyards surrounded by high, protective walls creating a barrier between you and the sprawling skyscrapers beyond.
In the center of said courtyards, there are usually long paths leading to a central throne room or additional important buildings eventually encompassing a central throne room.
When we arrived at Changdeokgung, the second of the two palaces within a couple miles of each other, our dogs were barking from so much walking! We were happy to see benches for a quick sit and ample shade to stand under if it were a hot and humid day in July. Both palaces are very similar, but worth seeing if you have the time. If not, one will do in a pinch and you will be happy to say you've been there.
#4 - Insadong
Between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung Palaces, on the main street that connects both, is Insadong: a famous shopping area. Insadong occupies a long, winding "street" (closer to an alley) that boasts many trinket and knick-knack shops, perfect for any Christmastime or birthday gift for anyone back home. We didn't get a chance to stop in this time, but Ed went a few years ago and asures me it is lovely! So we have yet to go back to take advantage of its advances.
#5 - Hongdae
Hongdae (Hongik University) was one of Ed's old favorites from when he came to Korea with his college back in 2013. It's a super college-y, artsy part of Seoul with lots of street food and buskers, if you like things like food and music. We had delicious samgyeopsal in a restaurant on the main drag before heading to a soju hof for drinks. There is tons of Western shopping in this district as well as a great night scene for dinner and drinks on the main stretch of the district, around the H&M and Forever 21 and above where the Green Line ends up in this area. Overall, Hongdae is an awesome locale with a fun vibe and offers many great hostels or guest houses.
Hongdae (Hongik University) was one of Ed's old favorites from when he came to Korea with his college back in 2013. It's a super college-y, artsy part of Seoul with lots of street food and buskers, if you like things like food and music. We had delicious samgyeopsal in a restaurant on the main drag before heading to a soju hof for drinks. There is tons of Western shopping in this district as well as a great night scene for dinner and drinks on the main stretch of the district, around the H&M and Forever 21 and above where the Green Line ends up in this area. Overall, Hongdae is an awesome locale with a fun vibe and offers many great hostels or guest houses.
#6 - Itaewon
This was the first place I saw when we visited Seoul for the first time last year for Chuseok. Crawling with foreigners, foreigner grub, and foreigner pubs, we felt right at home here in this district. We got a great deal on a room in a fancy hotel because of the holiday and enjoyed being able to walk to dinner and grab a drink then just walk back to our room at the opposite end of the street at the end of the evening. However, we have heard stories that this district can be a bit on the sketchy side due to the influx of foreigners and military personnel, so it may not necessarily always be as nice in terms of the type of people that hang around on the weekends or during big holiday celebrations. So just beware of your surroundings when hanging out here-as you would being in any part of any big city with lots of tourists mixing with locals.
As for food in Itaewon, there is TONS!!! There is a Subway as well as a Starbucks, a Mexican restaurant named Vatos Urban Tacos, many others along the strip and bars and pubs as well. There is an especially cute little Sherlock-themed pub that was our favorite. Yes! We are for real! NOTE: Go there if you are British or if any ounce of you admires a certain little couple-detective team. If done right, Itaewon can be a highlight of any visitor's Seoul experience.
This was the first place I saw when we visited Seoul for the first time last year for Chuseok. Crawling with foreigners, foreigner grub, and foreigner pubs, we felt right at home here in this district. We got a great deal on a room in a fancy hotel because of the holiday and enjoyed being able to walk to dinner and grab a drink then just walk back to our room at the opposite end of the street at the end of the evening. However, we have heard stories that this district can be a bit on the sketchy side due to the influx of foreigners and military personnel, so it may not necessarily always be as nice in terms of the type of people that hang around on the weekends or during big holiday celebrations. So just beware of your surroundings when hanging out here-as you would being in any part of any big city with lots of tourists mixing with locals.
As for food in Itaewon, there is TONS!!! There is a Subway as well as a Starbucks, a Mexican restaurant named Vatos Urban Tacos, many others along the strip and bars and pubs as well. There is an especially cute little Sherlock-themed pub that was our favorite. Yes! We are for real! NOTE: Go there if you are British or if any ounce of you admires a certain little couple-detective team. If done right, Itaewon can be a highlight of any visitor's Seoul experience.
#7 - Yongsan-dong
~National Museum of Korea~
We went to this museum last year and it was a pretty great time-although we like going to museums and going to bed at 9:30, so we are pretty understated folks. Beautiful glimpses of the surrounding skyline, an adoring pagoda and coy pond, and an intriguing architectural design makes the National Museum of Korea a sight to behold. Tons of history inside complete with audio tours, paintings, various kinds of art that makes up Korea's past. It can be too much for one afternoon, so you will want to visit it more than once. A nice quiet way to spend an afternoon if you haven't anything else pressing. This area is not too far from Itaewon either; get off at Ichon from the Light or Dark Blue metro lines and boom! You're about to witness history.
#8 - Yongsin-si
~Everland~
AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME. We love theme parks so we enjoyed visiting this sort of "Korean Disneyland." Lots to do and a lot of fun. There's some pretty epic roller coasters and fair rides, mixed in with a lot of other attractions and shows-even a beautiful corner of gardens that is gorgeous in spring and fall! In the park, there are different parts that represent different cultures so that was cool and then there is also a waterpark attached for the hotter months out of the year. It's a bit out of the way, but you can get to it using either a direct bus, or by taking the subway to the end of the line and then taking a shuttle to the park. It was a pretty long way to get out there, but it was so worth it! Link below if you'd like more info.!
#9 - Yeongdeungpo-dong
~Home of the amazing place you can't get into without a membership card!~
This is a more financial district-type situation. Many nice office buildings and apartment complexes makes for a nice stroll on a weekend after. Ed didn't realize and neither of us remembered until we were actually there that we didn't bring a membership card so we weren't allowed in to the one-and-only surplus shopping outlet of Costco. But it was still a nice and familiar jaunt to the infamous surplus store. Might be a good place to go if you have a membership handy! Just off the Green Line at the Yeongdeungpo-gu Office Station.
I spy with my little eye...
#10 - Myeong-dong / Namsan Tower
This district is home to two very famous attractions to locals and tourists alike. Myeong-dong is a famous shopping thoroughfare with plenty of make-up and clothing stores, replete with the traditional hawkers (in Korea, these are young-ish girls wearing microphones to advertise for different stores they are standing in front of and also sporting leg warmers that come up to their shins). Sometimes it seems as though Korea is stuck in the 80s. It's a great place to shop but can get crazy packed at times. Ed swears there's an amazing ddeokbokki restaurant down one of the streets (wear he got the picture for his instagram profile), but we didn't have the chance to investigate since we were after the other main attraction in the area: Namsan Tower.
N Seoul Tower (aka Namsan Tower) was voted the most scenic locale in all of Seoul by locals and we'd definitely agree. While we were in Seoul for Chuseok last fall, we enjoyed the panoramic view of the city and all the different activities there were for tourists at the top; you can get to the top of the mountain by taking a very-packed trolley ride or a hike via foot path. Once at the top, there was a traditional changing of the guard (not unlike what we say at the palaces) and traditional (read: OLD school) Korean games which looked a bit like hacky sack and darts to us. There is also the option for visitors to have their pictures taken and then Photoshopped into daytime and nighttime scenes of the Tower as photo keepsakes (these make GREAT Christmas gifts, guys! Visitors can walk the entirety of the glass-enclosed tower once at the top floor and there is a cool station to even buy postcards to send anywhere in the world directly from Namsan.
~Everland~
AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME. We love theme parks so we enjoyed visiting this sort of "Korean Disneyland." Lots to do and a lot of fun. There's some pretty epic roller coasters and fair rides, mixed in with a lot of other attractions and shows-even a beautiful corner of gardens that is gorgeous in spring and fall! In the park, there are different parts that represent different cultures so that was cool and then there is also a waterpark attached for the hotter months out of the year. It's a bit out of the way, but you can get to it using either a direct bus, or by taking the subway to the end of the line and then taking a shuttle to the park. It was a pretty long way to get out there, but it was so worth it! Link below if you'd like more info.!
#9 - Yeongdeungpo-dong
~Home of the amazing place you can't get into without a membership card!~
This is a more financial district-type situation. Many nice office buildings and apartment complexes makes for a nice stroll on a weekend after. Ed didn't realize and neither of us remembered until we were actually there that we didn't bring a membership card so we weren't allowed in to the one-and-only surplus shopping outlet of Costco. But it was still a nice and familiar jaunt to the infamous surplus store. Might be a good place to go if you have a membership handy! Just off the Green Line at the Yeongdeungpo-gu Office Station.
I spy with my little eye...
#10 - Myeong-dong / Namsan Tower
This district is home to two very famous attractions to locals and tourists alike. Myeong-dong is a famous shopping thoroughfare with plenty of make-up and clothing stores, replete with the traditional hawkers (in Korea, these are young-ish girls wearing microphones to advertise for different stores they are standing in front of and also sporting leg warmers that come up to their shins). Sometimes it seems as though Korea is stuck in the 80s. It's a great place to shop but can get crazy packed at times. Ed swears there's an amazing ddeokbokki restaurant down one of the streets (wear he got the picture for his instagram profile), but we didn't have the chance to investigate since we were after the other main attraction in the area: Namsan Tower.
We always enjoy Seoul when we go and come away with new experiences in new districts each time. Hope you enjoyed these we have been to thus far! Thanks for reading and we will write again soon! Cheers!
A newer system is even in place!
For more info on the KTX system!
Everland news!
Enjoy and safe travels!
<3,
E + K